How long does each service actually take?
A colour is 90-150 minutes, balayage is 2.5-3.5 hours and keratin is 2-4 hours.
A full-head colour is built from timed stages: 20-30 minutes to lift, 30 minutes developing, 15-45 minutes processing, then a rinse, tone and dry. Added together with application, the appointment lands between 90 and 150 minutes.
Balayage and other freehand lightening take longer because the product is painted on by hand, section by section: block out 2.5-3.5 hours. A keratin or smoothing treatment needs 2-4 hours, and that figure already includes the wash, the treatment itself and a 10-15 minute blow-dry at the end.
The wide ranges exist because hair does not behave uniformly. Hair lifts unevenly from root to ends, and roots on a previously lightened base take colour faster than virgin hair, so the same service runs shorter or longer depending on what is already on the head.
What happens during a full-head colour, minute by minute
Five timed stages, with two safety tests before any of them begin.
The developer is matched to the target depth before anything is mixed: 10 vol (3%) tones up to 10 levels, 20 vol (6%) gives 3-4 levels of lift and 30 vol (9%) gives 5-7 levels. Stronger is not faster in a useful sense — 30 vol left on the scalp for over 40 minutes is the main cause of irritation burns.
The named failures of a colour appointment all have clocks attached. An irritation burn comes from high-volume developer sitting too long on the scalp. Banding comes from skipping the strand test, because hair lifts unevenly from root to ends. Early fade comes from colouring over a previously lightened base, whose roots take colour faster and lose it sooner than virgin hair.
- 48 hours before: a PPD patch test goes on the skin; a reaction can keep developing for up to 72 hours after it appears.
- Before the lightener: a strand test on a 5 x 5 cm (2 x 2 in) section, checked every 10 minutes.
- Lift: 20-30 minutes with the developer matched to the target depth.
- Developing: 30 minutes.
- Processing: 15-45 minutes, then rinse, tone and dry.